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The LXD55.com User Knowledgebase
Currently Viewing All User Submitted Tips
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OTA Tip
3/7/2008 2:15:04 PM
Submitted By: crimsoncommander@hotmail.com
Tip: Looking for a case for your AR-6 or AR5, but cannot affort the JMI case for $350+? Look no further. EBAY-- Hard Shell Golf Travel Case ITEM# 220202568932 These are only $60!!! I got mine,and just lined it with some of that eggshell foam.
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OTA Tip
3/7/2007 3:48:01 PM
Submitted By: kevin_saunders@rogers.com
Tip: For anyone looking for silica gel packets for free try your local drug store. All prescription drugs come with these packets in them and I talked my pharmacist into saving them for me which I pick up periodically. They are great to have around for absorbing moisture when you telescope and accessories are stored. I also collect toys and use these packets to store with them to keep them preserved.
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OTA Tip
8/15/2004 2:44:44 PM
Submitted By: dawson.michelle@tiscali.co.uk
Tip: From Martin Dawson, The York Astronomical Society.
When I received my AR-5, I was a surprised (disappointed...) at the cheapo/plastic cap for the EP end when not in use. In one evening I manufactured the following cap. I turned and bored a 1.25 aluminium cap, tee-shape in profile. The blank end I copied the pattern on the focussing knobs and diamond knurled the out side larger diameter, in size to match the focussing tube and bored a 0.95in. internal. The bore was topped out with a clear fit ring, held by three concentric M2.5 grub screws equally spaced. When packed with a silica gel package the ring holds this with a stainless steel mesh to stop it falling out into the OTA. This helps to both keep out foreign bodies and moisture. I'm probably not explaining my self, so e.mail me for further details.
PS if you don't have a lathe, check out a local evening class at a school or collage, or perhaps get your Astronomical Society's engineering expert to fabricate one!!!
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OTA Tip
8/15/2004 11:00:47 AM
Submitted By: dawson.michelle@tiscali.co.uk
Tip: As the rotery switch on the polar scope illuminater is not very positive, one of the members of The York Astronomical Society suggested to me placing a small spring under the knob - look at the distance between the knob and housing to work out the size of spring, obviously it wants to be a greater distance (size?) when not under compression - and hey it worked!!! This should prevent the switch from rotating and draining the battery when the telsecope is not in use. Most hobby dens, garage/workshops should come up with a old spring.
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OTA Tip
10/18/2003 6:10:52 AM
Submitted By: tom.stock@yahoo.com
Tip:
Tired of that polar finder cap falling off the scope?
Place a rubber band around the cap just above the battery/switch knob. The rubber band will keep the cap from falling off when you bump it or move the scope.
Tom
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OTA Tip
8/7/2003 12:28:19 PM
Submitted By: Caravan208@earthlink.net
Tip: AR-6 owners: If you are not happy or satisfied with the short dewshield that Meade includes with this scope, you can have another, longer dewshield that won't cost you your next eyepiece savings.
8" sonotube is almost a perfect fit for the AR-6.
Depending on the quality of the outside finish, you may have to use a small amount of autobody glazing putty to fill in the tube lines if you really want it looking nice.
After you've filled the tube lines, spray paint with Krylon or another quality paint any gloss color you like. I used white to match the OTA. After you have several coats of paint, allow to dry, and then use spray polyurathane to seal the paint and the paper tube. Spray the poly on the inside of the tube as well. Paper will absorb this stuff so several coats are needed. Same with the paint.
When the whole thing is dry, use some black felt found at Wally-World and a can of spray adhesive to line the inside of the dewshield. Measure carefully the circumference and length and cut to fit. Carefully spray a little at a time inside the shield and place the felt square in the opening and work your way around until the ends meet.
Note: Do not cut the length of the felt past the objective cell.
To fit the new shield to the cell mount, use a hot glue gun and glue small strips of the felt to the mounting bumps for the stock shield. You should need no more that two strips together per bump to get a snug fit on the cell.
The new dew shield looks and functions much better than the stock. You could also baffle it if you'd like. I thought about some sort of set screws, but it would more than likely not work well with a cardboard tube.
I've used mine now for four months and it has held very well with just the felt.
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OTA Tip
7/21/2003 8:06:26 AM
Submitted By: jausubel@earthlink.net
Tip: A "tour" size golf travel bag works perfectly as a carrying case for the OTA. You can even find models with wheels.
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OTA Tip
6/20/2003 1:00:11 PM
Submitted By: tml@ados.com
Tip: This really isn't a tip (yet), simply an inquiry.
I've got the tube apart, mirror removed from cell. Have any of you cut say (3) aprx 1.5" dia holes in the plastic piece that's under the mirror to perhaps help with cooling? Thoughts ?
Kind of a couple tips though. My cell came with Aluminum uprights, not the rubber as in the "clipectomy" guide. There were 1/4" holes already drilled, and black silicone squirted thru as in the guide.
Well I removed the mirror, tapped the holes 5/16-18, then used nylon screws, cut off, and a slot cut in the "top" so as to be able to tighten with a straigt screw driver.
I also removed the wimpy springs, and replaced them with larger dia. and more resistant compression. This should help prevent the cell from shifting.
I can send pics if anyones interested. Just let me know your e-mail address.
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OTA Tip
6/15/2003 5:46:56 AM
Submitted By: Hypertune advice: middle screw on worm gear rack
Tip: When you are trying to adjust the fit of the worm gears in the RA and Dec drives, make sure you do not try to force the middle screw without loosening the other four screws on the apparatus. The threads are easily stripped when you do this. The middle screw determines the spacing of the worm gear to the main gear. The two screws on each side of it tilt it one way or the other. The other two screws are accessed from the outside of the motor housing and seem to be there to hold the whole thing in place. I'm not too sure why they are there but they are and when you adjust the gear drive to just the right setting, when you tighten the two outside screws it makes the setting too tight and you have to go back and reset the three inside screws. Just remember to loosen the other screws before you try to turn the middle screw in. Otherwise you can strip the threads. If this happens you will have to get the next larger screw and retap the hole. The metal is very easily crumbled. It must be cast aluminum.
Jim Smith
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OTA Tip
6/15/2003 5:44:18 AM
Submitted By: Hypertune advice: worm gear attachment
Tip: When you are doing your hypertune and you get to the part where you re-attach the worm gear racks to the main gears be especially careful to install them so that there is no play or slop. This is a tricky adjustment because you have to use 5 screws to do this. You don't want it so tight that it binds the motors but it must have no slop. The worm gear itself may need a little adjustment if it has a little back and forth play. The reason for this is that just a very small amount of slop here, like 1/16 inch, translates to maybe an inch or more at the end of the optical tube. It makes alignment of the tube (LXD55 Adjust) almost impossible, consequently your autoaligns will not work very well. I speak from experience.
Jim Smith
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OTA Tip
4/27/2003 7:54:42 AM
Submitted By: earshot@midamer.net
Tip: I have seen it somewhere before, but it is worth repeating. The fit between the top of the tripod mount and the bottom of the motors mount on my SN10 was too tight. I removed the legs from their mount, backed-out the fine azimuth knobs and turned the two parts upside down to check the fit. It took a dremel tool with a sanding drum to remove the high spots inside the tripod mount.
I could feel them with my fingertip. Now, when re-assembled I can't slip a piece of paper between the two pieces, they are flush and snug. If there is any gap in yours, the tripod will not be quite as solid.
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OTA Tip
4/14/2003 8:54:50 AM
Submitted By: lchurch@netdirect.net
Tip: I wanted to build a transport case for my SN10" scope, but I would rather spend the time outside under the stars. I did find a plastic case made by RubberMaid that is large enough to have good foam padding for a cradle and I have inserts for the top that hold the scope steady with the lid closed and latched. If interested, call RubberMaid at 1-800-998-8852, ex 5968 and order item #1192. About $75.00 shipped.
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OTA Tip
3/9/2003 9:46:18 PM
Submitted By: rosswnelson@hotmail.com
Tip: More a question.
I have an EQ5 skywatcher 8" reflector. Drives are not great in my opinion and was wondering if anyone knew if meade sold just the drives for the lxd55 (with autostart stuff, and the electronic circle thingys needed for the goto) by them selves? dont want new mount or scope, just drives and circles.
Anyone?
If this is not the right section for this please kick it where it belongs.
Cheers
Ross
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OTA Tip
3/4/2003 7:08:05 PM
Submitted By: kuizab@netscape.net
Tip: AR-5/6 OTA case. Just got a SKB golf bag hard shell travel case. Model 2SKB-4812WD. Works absolutly fabulously as an OTA case. Just get some foam, a little cutting and wahla. Cost: $106 + shipping from Explore Products, Inc./exploreproducts.com.
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OTA Tip
3/1/2003 12:58:40 PM
Submitted By: warpcorp@swbell.net
Tip: There have been several posts regarding alignment of the secondary mirror under the focuser. The secondary should have a 1/8" offset away from the focuser (taken care of by the secondary mounting) and 1/8" towards the primary. Although, some people will debate the effectiveness of this offset. There are templates in Tips&Tricks guide posted on the LXD55Telescopes Yahoo forum for both center spot location of the primary and the center and 1/8" offset of the secondary for an SN10. Questions? Email me.
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OTA Tip
3/1/2003 12:37:55 PM
Submitted By: re:SN-6 colimation tip
Tip: I don't claim to be a collimation expert, however I do believe that cutting a spring to place the center point of the diagonal directly beneath the center of the focusser is incorrect. I am assuming that you discovered this with a laser.
The reason is the secondary is intentionally placed away from the focusser and toward the primary by approx. 1/8" is, in a fast (f/6 and lower optic system)the cone of light from the primary will not fully intersect a secondary that is centered on the optical axis.
I know this doesn't seem right, but it is. It is called offset.
Look at http://w1.411.telia.com/~u41105032/kolli/kolli.html
Error #2 will accurately depict the offset.
Please let me know what you think, or correct me if I an wrong.
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OTA Tip
2/27/2003 12:59:04 PM
Submitted By: strengthen that mount
Tip: I have found that 2 stips of 1/8" thick rubber
approximately 1" x 3" at the very top of each leg
makes the legs more sturdy.
The rubber pieces "sandwich" between the 3 leg
parts.
I did this because I found the center portion of
the leg assembly wiggles freely at the top.
This may only work well if the mounts legs are
not extended.
When the rubber pieces are installed and compressed
by tightening the wing nuts at the top of the leg
assembly the entire leg is more like a solid beam.
I also, as suggested, removed the nylon washers
at the leg pivot point and tightened the pivot quite
firmly.
This works well on my sn 10", let me know if it works
for you.
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OTA Tip
2/26/2003 4:17:59 PM
Submitted By: rcfs@look.com
Tip: SN-6 collimation tip…
Mark the center of the secondary mirror and you’ll discover this center can not be brought up to the center plane of the focuser.
The reason is the spring behind the secondary holder is too long. You need to snap that spring into half, making it shorter, then, the center spots will lineup. As always, your scope may vary as mine, please make sure that’s what you need to do as I did.
Clear Skies.
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OTA Tip
2/8/2003 11:42:08 PM
Submitted By: theshoo@hotmail.com
Tip: I made a great dew shield for my LXD55 10" SN. Bought a mylar sunshade (for auto windshield) at the dollar store. Lined it with black flannel And attached it to my scope with velcrow. Total cost under five bucks. :-)
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OTA Tip
2/2/2003 2:01:34 PM
Submitted By: Setup for those with Kids around... becareful
Tip: Set up your LDX55SN with kids in the area and their natural and 1st inclination is to touch the corrector plate. Anyway... a great tip... keep it covered and warn them that touching that will "ruin it... yep... got to be sent back to the factory". Maybe hard to keep sticky Skiddle candy residue off that corrector plate by any method mentioned on this site (except hot soapy water!!!)
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OTA Tip
2/2/2003 1:40:19 PM
Submitted By: Balancing
Tip: I used the single fulcrum method to double check the Declination balance of the OTA (moving it front to back within the cradle) by taking it off and laying it on a broom stick handle. At the balance point of the cradle mount (where the large knob (with red center piece) tightens down the OTA & Cradle should balance. May need to change this a bit when adding Barlows, Camera, etc so do this with what you think you may normally have on the focuser.
I think a good indication of balance is the sound or tone of the motors when you move them in RA/Dec. < and > the motors should sound the same and ^ and v they should sound the same. A low pitch means that that motor is working harder in that direction and the balance may be off.
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OTA Tip
2/2/2003 1:30:02 PM
Submitted By: JayDAnderson@adelphia.net
Tip: I don't have the corner on the market when it comes to an occasional dumb thing... here it is so you don't do it...
My 12 yr old son is sitting on a chair reading out the instructions for the Meade LXD55SN10 and I am picking the pieces out of the boxes and assembling them. I add the 30 pounds of counterweights to the mount and the OTA isn't on it yet. The weights are up in the air. I relase the RA and Dec to arrange the position so that I can easily place the OTA on the mount.
The weights swing wildly around under their own weight and whoosh past my kids head. He looks up from the instruction sheet as he feels the "wind" and says, "Geeze dad!"
Can anyone beat that? Anyway... I feel better having got that out in the air.
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OTA Tip
1/24/2003 5:42:08 PM
Submitted By: Precision balance your OTA
Tip: There is a neat trick I learned a long time ago for easily finding the center of gravity, or "balance point", of just about any object. It is more precise, and easier to execute, then the "single fulcrum" method described on the message board. I'll call it the "double fulcrum" method, although I'm sure it has an official name.
It is easy to illustrate using a pencil. Hold out your two index fingers so that they point directly ahead of you and are approximately the same height. Seperate them by about 4 inches. Have someone rest a pencil on your two fingers.
Now, VERY slowly and carefully move your two index fingers closer together, making sure that they stay approximately level. The pencil will stick to one finger and then the other, back and forth, as the weight is re-distibuted over each fulcrum. When your fingers finally touch, the point exactly between them will be the center of gravity of the pencil.
You can perform this technique on larger objects, like a telescope, by putting two wooden dowels, or any kind of smooth rods, on a table top. Set the telescope on top of the dowels. Make sure the telescope is touching nothing but the dowels. Gently and slowly slide or roll one of the dowels towards the other until they touch. Be careful to not move the dowels too quickly. Give the scope time to re-locate it's balance point as you move the dowel.
When the dowels come together mark the spot between them on a piece of tape which you apply to the OTA. Label the mark with the FL of the eyepiece that is currently attached. While your there do the same re-balancing with your other eyepieces. From then on whenever you change eyepieces you'll know exactly where to re-center your OTA in the cradle.
A balanced OTA will make slewing easier on you and your motors.
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OTA Tip
12/14/2002 11:41:39 PM
Submitted By: jaydanderson@adelphia.net
Tip: For those wondering what their Latitude is for setting up their telescope's polar mount or plantarium software... other than using a GPS you might try www.heavens-above.com . This site will give you a fairly accurate local latitude and longitude as well as elevation (possibly somewhat even less accurate). I am in Stafford, Virginia... it is amazing how many "Staffords" there are in the USA. I am at 38.4220N and -77.4090W and 69 Meters above sea level if you are ever in this neck of the woods.
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OTA Tip
12/3/2002 8:05:25 AM
Submitted By: akurei_uindo@yahoo.com
Tip: Decisions, decisions.
I ordered a 10" SN LXD55 in October.
Naturally, Meade just released the 8" Schmidt-Cassegrain (exactly the same optics as the LX200 8" SC) on an LXD55 mount.
Naturally Meade will not say if they plan on releasing a 10" SC (using LX200 optics) on an LXD55 mount.
So the decision I face now is...
Should I trade-off 2" of aperature (and pay $200) to go with the better optical system in the 8" SC on the LXD55 (which is the same as putting an 8" SC LX200 OTA on an LXD55 mount) or should I stick with the 10" SN LXD55?
Do you think that Meade will release a 10" SC (using the superior LX200 Optical system) on an LXD55 mount.
What would you guys do?
P.S. Did anyone see the evaluation of the LXD55 series (excluding the newest member--8"SC LXD55) in the December issue of Sky and Telescope? And if so, how well do you think they did in their assessment of the LXD55s?
Thanks in advance.
Akurei Uindo
"Live people ignore the strange and unusual.
I, myself, *am* strange and unusual."
--Lydia Deetz (from the movie "Beetlejuice")
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OTA Tip
11/26/2002 4:12:56 PM
Submitted By: Keeping out the moisture
Tip: Here is an idea for those of us plagued by dew residue after a night of viewing. Based on some other posts, I did a little searching and came up with this.
Take a 35mm film canister, drill some small (1/8")holes in the bottom and sides of it, cut a 4"x4" square of linen gauze, put a couple of grams of sodium silicate crystal in the center of the gauze, tie up the corners with thread, stuff it in the film cannister, put the lid back on the cannister and put in your focuser tube. This will suck up any moisture trapped in the OTA. Make a second cannister and put in your eyepiece case.
Go to Walgreens or you local discount gadget store and get four round (flat type) of pill boxes. Drill the same holes, stuff with the dessicate, put a piece of velcro on the top or bottom, put the other half of the velcro on the inside of your OTA cover. I use two at each end of the scope. This allows me to keep both ends covered with no moisture buildup.
Here is a link where you can get the silicate gel (900 grams will cover it all for $16.80. You can recharge the dessicate crystals once a month by baking them in the oven.
Here are the links:
http://www.brent-krueger.com/silica.html
and
http://preservesmart.com/products.htm#SilicaGelDesiccants
Hope this is useful.
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OTA Tip
11/24/2002 7:29:39 AM
Submitted By: mglancaster@talk21.com
Tip: Loose secondary cap: I recently purchased the 10" SN. When unpacking the scope and removing the dust cover for the first time I was horrified to find that the plastic cap that covers the secondary mirror collimation screws (the one with the Meade logo on it) was resting on the corrector plate. It had obviously worked loose during shipping. Moreover the loose cap had scratched the surface of the corrector plate, as it must have moved across the surface during transit. The secondary cap simply slots into the top of the secondary mirror support and does not appear to clip on like a camera lens cap for instance. Surely it would have been a simple matter for Meade to design a cap that clips on, or even better threads on to the secondary support. The cap will only work loose when the telescope is shipped, stored, or positioned in a horizontal or inverted position and some vibration is applied. Mike Lancaster, Derbyshire, UK
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OTA Tip
11/19/2002 11:40:57 PM
Submitted By: dlvett@isys.ca
Tip: Cleaning optics - finger prints on the corrector plate as an example - is always a challenge. The following link from Tele Vue site may help.
http://www201.pair.com/resource/astro.html/regular/products/tele-vue-optics/cleaning.htm
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OTA Tip
11/12/2002 11:32:07 PM
Submitted By: rkuna@houston.rr.com
Tip: My SC-8 got here Monday 11-11-2002. I was happy to get mine, but I had some problems with it.Getting it,thats the good news. The problem I had was mainly the mount, it seemed like it was had been used. Scratched paint nothing wrapped up, missing polar scope cover. It just like it had been used and abused. And I kept getting dec motor fault from the autostar, Oh yah the finder scope was blue.
I contacted Meade and I’m sending the mount back for a new one, plus they are going to swap out the finder scope for a white one.
Clear Skies
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OTA Tip
10/28/2002 11:25:05 AM
Submitted By: GrumpaBob@hotmail.com
Tip: I have had trouble getting free motion of both the RA and Dec bearings on the LXD55 Mount. I read a post that recommended putting thicker washers between the RA assembly and the Dec assembly to loosen up the motion.
I removed the two screws holding the RA assembly and Dec assembly together and sanded the mating faces flat. One casting face has a continuous bearing surface that is flat and circular. The other casting face has three raised bosses. The designer probably figured having three bosses would eliminate rocking between the castings.
There are four threaded holes for the two screws to engage. When I lined up the arrows for the polar position, the screws engaged the two threaded holes that were between the bosses. This allows the castings to deform because the load is between the supports. If I rotated the castings 90°, the screws engage the holes that are through one of the bosses, and between the other two.
I assembled the head using these holes, with the alignment arrows at 90° instead of aligned, and both bearings ran much freer, even without thicker washers.
I believe this is a better orientation for the castings and minimizes casting deflection, so I removed the arrows and will replace them with Warp's arrows in the new locations.
You can determine the orientation of the screws without disassembling the head by examining the gap between the castings where the screws are located. If the gaps are short (14mm and 25mm) when measured along the circumference, then it is assembled as I recommend. If they are long, (80mm) then you may be getting excessive casting deflection.
Grump
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OTA Tip
10/23/2002 1:11:34 AM
Submitted By: akurei_uindo@yahooc.om
Tip: I liked the idea of using a wagon for toting your instrument. A slightly different variation would be to use a suitable "luggage cart" or "two-wheeler" (Office Depot has a nice selection with capacities up to 250 lbs. or so) to haul your scope about creation.
I plan on building a plywood storage case for the OTA and mount/tripod. Then, secure both the cases to the luggage cart via "mover's straps" (Webbed strapping. Some have "come-along" type devices for ensuring a secure binding).
I plan on just hand carrying my 12-volt car battery. If that proves difficult, I will find a way to work it onto the luggage cart arrangement. A sealed lead acid batt. should be ok moving.
I haven't quite decided on the battery system. There are "Gel-Type" batteries out that are zero maint. and last for a very long time.
I just ordered my scope so I am already planning on how to transport it, etc.
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OTA Tip
9/13/2002 12:13:48 PM
Submitted By: warpcorp@swbell.net
Tip: I've posted some pics showing the focuser during build and mounted on the LXD55. Shots of parts both before and after modification. Posted in my folder in the LXD55telescope group - Warpcorp
To install the Meade 1240 electric focuser on the LXD55 4 speeds / dual motion / Autostar 497 controllable / plugs into the AUX port on the LXD55 control panel.
What you need: 1240 focuser / 3/8" shrink tubing / hair dryer or heat gun / superglue / sandpaper / 5/16" drill bit / brass washer / 2-o rings / pinion back from a DS127 scope (Meade sent me one at no charge).
READ ALL THE DIRECTIONS FROM THE 1240 FOCUSER FIRST THEN THESE BEFORE YOU START.
The pinion shaft on the LXD series is slightly larger and not as long as the one for the DS series (which the 1240 is designed for). Remove the four screws holding the retaining plate (u shaped metal bracket holding in the pinion shaft) and the LXD pinion. Unscrew one of the knobs from the shaft they are very tight. Find the black threaded collar assembly from the focuser kit. Remove the adjustment nut and all parts from the black threaded collar designed to fit over the shaft. Cut the small "nipple" from the threaded end of the threaded clutch collar sand the end smooth. Using the 5/16" drill, very carefully enlarge the opening in the collar till it fits over the end of the LXD shaft. you want this as snug as you can get it. You might start out with a smaller drill or even a dremel tool. Place the collar only over the shaft and replace the knob you just removed. Squirt some super glue on the large flange of the collar and carefully center it and glue to the inside of the knob DO NOT GET GLUE ON THE THREADS. Let it dry completely and then again unscrew the knob and remove your newly created knob clutch assembly.
Take the back plate from the DS127 and sand it down almost to the little holes drilled vertically through it. The standoff of the DS127 mount was greater than that of the LXD series. Without sanding it down, it will not fit close enough to the pinion shaft to engage the gears. Once you have it sanded down, turn to the metal plate you removed from the LXD focuser. Sand the black paint off of it. Center the metal LXD bracket onto the DS127 bracket (the one you just sanded), it is longer than the metal bracket. Flush one of the ends one end will be flush the other end will have the plastic DS127 bracket overhanging the metal bracket. With a pencil mark the four small mounting screws holes of the metal LXD bracket onto the plastic DS127 bracket. Drill out the holes on the plastic bracket. The holes MUST be drilled out enough to allow the heads of the screws from the LXD to pass through them.
Making sure both surfaces are clean, superglue the plastic bracket onto the metal bracket making sure the holes of the metal bracket are CENTERED in the holes of the plastic bracket. Don't worry if you make the holes in the plastic DS127 bracket too large you won't see them anyway. Put aside to dry.
Now assemble the clutch pinion assembly. Take the knob with the clutch shaft which you just glued together. Place an o-ring over the shaft and slide it up to the flange (I did not get the size I just went to the hardware store and bought two that fit snug over the clutch shaft). Next the nylon gear, then another o-ring, a brass washer (make sure the washer diameter is smaller than the teeth of the nylon gear), and finally the locking nut. Repeating the order: knob, clutch flange, o-ring, nylon gear, o-ring, brass washer, nut. This assembly will slide back over the pinion shaft.
Take a piece of shrink tubing and cut it to fit over the end of the pinion shaft with the knob removed. You want it to cover only the large end portion of the shaft. Leave about a 1/16 inch gap of metal showing at the inside flange – do not cover all the way to the center smaller shaft. Leave just enough hanging over the end with threads so that it "wraps" over the shoulder of the shaft when you heat it up with the hair dryer or heat gun. Now twist the knob and clutch assembly back onto the shaft. It will be tight and it will not go far enough to allow you to thread the knob back on. This will be a "friction" fit for now. Position the pinion shaft back in place and remount the retaining plate assembly using the 4 original screws. Do not tighten the 4 screws to tightly they control the ease of movement of the focusing mechanism. Tighten all 4 equally and test the feel of the focuser. It should be firm but easiy to turn with little drag.
On the back of the motor are two "rails". One is a "positioning rail, the other has brass threaded inserts. File down or use a dremel tool to grind off the ends of the rails – up to the brass threads. This is to make sure you have clearance for the screw heads holding on the bracket. Position the motor with the cord toward the corrector plate and the gear engaging the gear you installed on the pinion shaft. Mount the motor to the DS127 plate as indicated in the directions to the 1240. The cord of the motor will be facing the front (corrector plate) end of the scope. The gear will be towards the primary mirror end. Loosely insert the small allen screws from the 1240 kit till you engage the threads leave it loose for now until you get final positioning. You will have to move the
knob/clutch assembly in or out ton the shaft till the two gears match up and mesh. Once you get them to match up tighten down the allen screws so the motor is tight.
If all is OK when you power up the focuser the two gears will be turning together. Tighten the large nut on the clutch assembly until there is enough friction for the focuser to move the focus tube and yet just loose enough that you can still turn the focuser by hand.
My clutch assembly was tight enough that this where I finished. You may have to "fiddle" with the alignment of the clutch assembly and knob till where it is in line with the shaft and not "wobbling" as it rotates. If it is not tight enough at this point, a shot of super glue between the end of the shaft assembly and the pinion shaft should fix it.
Mine is working smoothly and the control feature of the AutoStar is an added bonus.
ONE CAVEAT TO BE AWARE OF: Because of the nature of movement of the scope on the equatorial mount, there is not enough cord to go from the motor to the control panel AUX port. It reaches in home position but as you slew, you will rip it from the socket. I cut the cord and spliced in a 8 " length of 4 conductor coiled cord (like a radar
detector cord). I run the straight wire from the motor to the cradle rings down under the scope and then let the coiled wire run from there to the AUX jack. This gives plenty of play for slewing and stretching.
Good luck hope this helps.
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OTA Tip
9/11/2002 10:52:25 AM
Submitted By: Richard
Tip: Share your knowledge relating to the OTA (Optical Tube Assembly).
Special Attachments? Collimation? Anything OTA related!
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