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The LXD55.com User Knowledgebase
Currently Viewing All User Submitted Tips
Untitled Document
Mount Tip
2/10/2006 12:57:23 PM
Submitted By: notify@lxd55.com
Tip: Can't remove your Polar scope ring from the RA axis?
Boy I wish I had 10 cents for everyone who has had this problem.
The polar scope ring is one of the hardest pieces of the mount to remove, usually because Meade uses an enormous amount of thread lock there. (Why, I have no idea).
You will have to either use channel locks with leather in between the grips, or something like it in order to remove that collar.
We have a special tool I had made just for that reason, it fits into the threaded holes and allows me to turn the ring without much damage (if any) to it.
Most times you end up with a marred piece of metal that requires refinishing once you get it removed.
Just be careful not to damage the threads that hold the polar scope collimation screws in place.
A bench mounted vise really comes in handy here, or put the mount back on the tripod so you don't have to worry about it slipping away.
About 1/20 mounts are like what you are describing, I'm sorry you are the 1..
Hope that helps.
Richard
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Mount Tip
10/14/2004 2:47:17 PM
Submitted By: jj_mclaughlin@hotmail.com
Tip: To all those people who are having pointing problems with their LXD55 mounts. I had mine for over two years now. It was working fine till about six months ago. On the two star alignment, it would go about 10 to 15 degrees past the first alignment star. I would center the star and press enter. Same thing would happen to the second star. After, whenever I would choose an object, it would always go past the object by about 10 to 15 degrees.
One day I took the mount apart and noticed that the encoder wheels were a shiny silver metal. Having worked with encoders before, I figured that this might be sending bad or erratic pulses to the infrared decoder. To fix the problem, I took the board completely off the motor. If you do this be VERY CAREFUL NOT TO BEND THE ENCODER WHEEL. It is very fragile. I then put some Kleenex all around the motor and spray painted the encoder wheel on both sides with FLAT BLACK metal paint. Just spray a very LIGHT COAT on the wheel. YOU DO NOT WANT TO PLUG ANY OF THE HOLES ON THE WHEEL. When I was done, I could still see through the paint. The idea here is to just get rid of that shinyness of the wheel. I also did the same thing to the declination motor.
After doing all of the above, I did a (calibrate motors), then I did the (train drive).
Now my mount works GREAT. Had no problems with it since doing this. I hope this will be some help for some of you guys out there.
Thanks. J.J. the Stargazer.
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Mount Tip
8/18/2004 8:04:15 PM
Submitted By: jcgx530@charter.net
Tip: From Joe Guerra
One night, I turned on my LXD55, to find that it started slewing in Right Ascension and wouldn't stop! Luckily, after tooling around with it, i found a way to fix it. First, while the mount is still off, you need to remove the R.A. gearbox. Using an American 3/16 hex key, hold the gearbox with one hand, loosen the screw under the polar alignment scope until you can remove the box.
After the Gearbox is off, the gears will run but the mount won't move because it is detached from the mount. Turn on the autostar and under SETUP scroll down to RESET and press enter. After a second or two it should stop slewing. You do have to re-enter information but it does fix the problem. The software upgrade for autostar is what might be the cause of it. Hopefully this will help you if you ever encounter this problem.
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Mount Tip
7/26/2004 1:25:46 AM
Submitted By: croessus@yahoo.com
Tip: I saw another tip that recommends using a rubber band to keep the polar alignment cap near the R.A. marks from falling off. If you don't want to deal with snapped rubber bands or want or more professional look then I recommend using a girl's hair scrunchy. For you guys who might not know what these are, girls use them to keep their hair in a pony tail and is basically a big rubber band. Some look frilly and come in all colors but the one I found is black and looks much like a rubber o-ring. It will probably last forever because it's virtually unbreakable.
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Mount Tip
7/26/2004 1:12:58 AM
Submitted By: croessus@yahoo.com
Tip: Are you looking for replacement rubber feet for your SN-10 tripod. I've found some door stop tips that work great. I found them at Lowes hardware but you may find them elsewhere such as Home Depot or another hardware store. I've seen different sizes that don't all work but mine are from a company called National and they come 6 to a box. There are two numbers on the package that I assume is the model number and type number. The numbers are N181-404 and V230T respectively. They're not quite as big or deep as the originals so they only fit up to the first notch level on the tripod legs but they fit snugly. They don't have a very thick wall so to give them a little more wall and a softer more rubber feel I've dipped them into a rubber poly compound called Poly-Sheild that you can find in the paint section of your local hardware store. I got mine at Orchard Supply. This stuff is usually used to coat the handles of hand tools. I recommend 4-5 coats. The more coats you use the thicker it gets. It comes in a spray aerosol and a dip but I prefer the dip. The tips run for about $1.00 and the optional poly dip $7.00 The poly dip is much more than you'll ever need enough to coat hundreds of these tips. Since the tips aren't expensive you might try using them without the poly dip if they wear out just replace them again. For about the price of the poly dip you can get about 14 sets of 3.
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Mount Tip
6/18/2004 8:12:56 AM
Submitted By: notify@lxd55.com
Tip: DEC Slew in High Speed Only
Try this -
Have your scope powered on, and set the DEC slew to a low speed - like 3 or 4 on the AutoStar keypad.
Next, hold the DEC slew down on the keypad while the DEC axis on the scope mount is turning, and turning.
It'll possibly make 2 or 3 complete turns
around.
With any luck, the Autostar will 'detect' the problem and give you a "MOTOR UNIT FAILURE" message sometime during this process.
Press and hold the ENTER key on the AutoStar keypad, or the DEC slew down again until the
AutoStar resets.
Once the AutoStar resets and reboots itself, try the DEC slew again on a
slow speed - any better?
If that doesn't fix the problem you've either got an issue with the DEC motor itself, RA controller, or AutoStar. It's hard to find which one unless you have spares to test with that you know are good.
Rich
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Mount Tip
1/31/2004 2:27:44 PM
Submitted By: poplues@westbrabant.net
Tip: You may have noticed that the LXD55 GoTo-head is an excellent instrument but that it sits on top of a rather wobbly tripod. The tripod allows a lot of torsion and bending, which is a problem specifically with the long tubes of the AR-5 and AR-6. I replaced my tripod with the Skywatcher HEQ-5 tripod that I bought (without head and motordrives) from my local dealer for $150. The LXD55 head fits perfectly (with minimum modification) to the sturdy HEQ-5 (round-legged) tripod. A small investment that makes your LXD55 set-up Absolutely Stable. Especially interesting for refractor users.
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Mount Tip
9/29/2003 11:47:07 AM
Submitted By: ALUN@halsey593.freeserve.co.uk
Tip: AUTOGUIDER FOR LX200/AUTOSTAR
AT THE MOMENT I AM LOOKING INTO THE POSSIBILITIES
OF THE AUTOGUIDER MENU WITHIN COAA'S ASTROVID SOFTWARE I HAVE USED ON A COUPLE OF NIGHTS WITH GOOD RESULTS USING THE STELLACAM VIDEO CAMERA AND THE LXD55 MOUNT. ANYONE INTERESTED GO TO WWW.QCUIAG.CO.UK CLICK ON THE DOWNLOAD LINK AND YOU WILL FIND A LINK TO ASTROVID,ITS A 21 DAY TRIAL AFTER WHICH YOU WILL HAVE TO REGISTER TO CONTINUE USE.
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Mount Tip
8/11/2003 2:54:48 PM
Submitted By: wildsong@hotmail.com
Tip: There is an awesome aftermarket product for the LXD55 Mount, especially if you are prone to travel and don't want to keep guessing just where you are (geographically speaking, that is). Simple, works great, and has a few special bonuses:GPS Unit from Scopetronix for the LXD55! They supply the cables, software, etc. And, if you have some navigation software on that Laptop or Handheld, a special USB cable is "orderable," as well. Well worth the price, considering all the non-astronomical applications you can use it for.
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Mount Tip
7/9/2003 7:05:17 AM
Submitted By: notify@lxd55.com
Tip: This addresses:
Alignment problems, Encoder Wheels, AutoStar pulses, LXD55 motor, motors
If you are having trouble with your encoders giving the Autostar false pulses - one thing you can do is this; and proceed with CAUTION.
The encoders wheels are very fragile. You can and most likely will bend them, you can over tighten the shaft, bending it as well.
These are not field replaceable. In other words, Meade isn't going to send you a new one if you dork it up. They will ask you what you were doing - then void your warranty on the motor.
This is a radical fix, and you should not do this unless you are having GOTO and or tracking problems and feel comfortable knowing you can disable your motor entirely.
You will have to completely dismantle the motor electronics to do this.
First try setting up your Autostar correctly, and testing your motors in a different way.
<<>>
Remove the encoder(s) from the motor shaft.
Set them up on a raised surface (where the top and bottom aren't touching anything. We use a special made stand for them)
Paint both sides, flat black. NOT using too much paint as you can close off the slits.
Reinstall the encoders with a distance of about 1mm or 2mm off the backside of the read surface, or just so that it isn't touching.
We have performed this trick on many mounts, and it used to be a standard practice with all Hypertunes, but we found not all mounts needed the fix. So we stopped doing it unless they were having odd pulsing problems.
Since the encoders are a shiny aluminum surface, sometimes they reflect and send misread pulses to the Autostar, thus causing it to lose it's orientation and send the telescope off target from where it was going.
Richard
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Mount Tip
5/1/2003 4:10:46 PM
Submitted By: reckc@alltel.net
Tip: When I received my LXD55 scope, I made up my mind I would not be using the method of powering my scope with that poor pack that comes with the scope. I had thought of using a small tractor utility battery. Then I found the ideal set up.
I purchased a Speedway 2 in 1 jumpstart w/ air compressor, item 05134 from Hormiers. Their address is www.Hormier.com This item is listed at $29.99. It's can be recharged,it's spill proof and you don't have to worry about running out of power. You could even start your car with it after using it all night! This jumpstart has a small light attached to it that can be used when packing up for the evening.
This is what I did to improve my jumpstart. I
modified it by installing an illuminated (red) rocker on off switch, a small automotive fuse and jack in the case. I took notice of the Meade battery pack wiring polarity. I cut the battery pack wiring off,close to the pack, and installed the wires taking note of the polarity observed to a male jack that would fit the female counterpart now installed in the jumpstart case.
The parts I required were the rocker switch,fuse holder,fuse 1 1/4 amp and the jack set--all obtained at Radio Shack.
I would suggest to anyone not familiar with electrical work to have someone make the modification for them. Connecting to the correct polarity is important and caution while working within the jumpstart is only common sense.
If a person did not want to make the modifications that I have,the unit unit has a cigarette lighter receptacle on the side of it. All that would be necessary would be to purchase a male cigarette plug and install it on the scope battery pack wires that you'd cut off.
I saved my receptacle for my dew zapper.
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Mount Tip
4/27/2003 7:25:27 AM
Submitted By: earshot@midamer.net
Tip: This may help some of the tripod flex that is so prevalent. Check the cast steel piece on the lower end of the center leg of each leg assembly. Two out of three of mine were loose.
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Mount Tip
11/19/2002 1:38:55 PM
Submitted By: warpcorp@swbell.net
Tip: Polar Home Setup:
Before you start, have three sets of alignment arrows cut out from the template in the files section.
Once a correct polar alignment is done, I simply embed three concrete filled juice cans below ground level, used a permanent marker to trace the outline of my Orion pads onto the top of the cans. Now when I set up, line the pads up on the cans and put the legs in the center of the pads - quick and easy. Next, I align the three sets of arrows on my mount which I applied using the below procedure.
This first part can be done indoors or out. Remove the head from the tripod and level the mount indoors on a good solid floor. Once I was sure the tripod and head were adjusted to level, I silicone two round bubble levels - one to each of the top of the two back legs - ensuring that they were indicating "level" - bubbles centered. Let the silicone set up overnight and recheck to make sure the bubbles are still centered before you continue.
Remove the counterweight shaft dovetail and rings. Place a small carpenters level across the saddle plate head lined up in a north-south orientation. Adjust the latitude adjustment handle to lower the mount until the level reads centered. Now loosen the DEC lock and rotate the saddle head with the level in place until it points in an east-west orientation. Loosen the RA lock and rotate the mount around the RA access one way or the other until the bubble is centered. Keep making little adjustments on both axis(es) until you can turn the saddle plate a full 360 degrees without the bubble moving from centered position.
Use the latitude adjustment handle again to tilt the head up. Replace the counterweight bar. Lower the head and adjust the fine azimuth control knobs until the counterweight bar is centered between the two outer tubes of the front leg. Tighten (snug) both fine azimuth control knobs.
During this step, the ONLY knobs used to make adjustments are the latitude t-handles. Without moving the DEC or RA orientation (keep the locks tight). Take the scope outside to your favorite viewing spot (or somewhere close with a clear surface). Adjust the tripod legs to get the mount level. Reinstall the counterweights so there is realistic weight on the mount (you could also have the scope rings and OTA mounted for more accuracy). Recheck the leg heights to make sure the bubble levels are still indicating level. Point the north leg (one with the star) as close to north as you can get it. Using the polar scope align on the north celestial pole (close is good enough). Move the tripod by hand and use the latitude adjustment handles to align the NCT. Do not loosen the RA and DEC locks - do NOT use autostar (the scope should be off). Once you get a fairly close alignment tighten both latitude handles to lock the position.
Now take the three sets of alignment arrows and apply one set to the RA axis, one set to the DEC axis and one set between the tripod head and mount (between the back two legs is a good location).
From this point on, all you should have to do is put the feet of your tripod in the same place and line up the arrows for an accurate starting Polar Home Position. If you change viewing locations, you will have to use the fine azimuth controls to re-center the NCP and can ignore the third set of arrows.
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Mount Tip
10/25/2002 8:27:26 PM
Submitted By: mykrowyre@yahoo.com
Tip: Is your mount a little too tight in declination?
If your mount binds in Dec, try loosening the two bolts which attach the dec housing to the ra housing. If it suddenly turns easily in dec, then the plastic spacers between the two halves are not sized correctly and are too thin. The binding is because the dec housing is deforming under pressure. You'll need to find some replacement washers. If you can't find the correct thickness washers, stack up a few washers and then take one and rub it against a file until it's thin enough for the correct spacing. They should be thick enough to prevent binding, but thin enough that the top edge and bottom edge of the dec housing make contact with the ra housing. Look closely because those edges are not flat or square, and may only contact at one little bump..thats ok as long as they touch. It would probably be a good idea to sand these surfaces so that they are flat and square, but hey some other time. ;)
I ended picked up two 1/4" nylon washers from the hardware store and added a thin metal washer on top to get the spacing right.
-tom
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Mount Tip
10/1/2002 10:42:44 PM
Submitted By: jorge_877@hotmail.com
Tip: My problem was that when assemblying my SN10 the R.A. mtors didn't work fine, so I checked and weeks later I realized that the reason for this was the position of the counterweights, I put them to high and the telescope was unbalanced, but then I lowered them a liitle, just 1.75 inches above the end of the counterweights shaft and I was amazed with the results, the mount works excellent.
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Mount Tip
9/22/2002 3:56:31 AM
Submitted By: warpcorp@swbell.net
Tip: Home Depot carries a line of RustOleum spray paint in the greyish color: "Hammered Metal". An almost exact match for the LXD55 series scopes.
Also, placing two very thin nylon washers under each of the large collimation screws (between the screw head and cell) will eliminate the eventual removal of paint underneath the knob. It also turns alot smoother.
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Mount Tip
9/19/2002 4:20:50 PM
Submitted By: peterbruce@blueyonder.co.uk
Tip: Mount Bubble Level.
I have found it an advantage to fit a level onto the cast tripod base of the LXD mount. Having owned a EQ5 mount before (which had a level fitted) made me wonder why Meade did not fit one.
The level used was a small circular bubble level which would fit onto the casting over one of the tripod legs - being in full view.
The German mount is first removed and the tripod set up accuratly on a level base. Once adjusted it is a simple task to silicon the base of the small bubble level to the casting. Keep checking while the silicon cures and after it's dry replace the mount onto the tripod.
You now have a true level to work from next time you set up in the field.
Regards
PETER BRUCE. UK.
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Mount Tip
9/15/2002 10:59:14 PM
Submitted By: alanprowse@hotmail.com
Tip: Battery performance in cold conditions. Have been using the telescope below 4 degrees Celcius. The battery drain and performance becomes noticably weaker. So much so that Autostar GOTO just wont. This was after 4 hours operating at these temperatures with all the equipment soaked in dew. The tracking and manual slow motion control on the Autostar work, but there is frequent total power loss when changes are made. Fresh batteries completely dead in under 8 hours. (standard heavy duty) Alkalines are better. However, best option use electricity or deep cycle 12V car battery. If you want to use the 8 D size batteries, I have found that a cheap battery powered hair dryer works well in keeping the temperature up. It is also great in keeping everything dry.
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Mount Tip
9/14/2002 8:04:10 PM
Submitted By: tomstock@av.eastlink.ca
Tip:
Prevent loosing the reticle switch knob. Put a spring between the knob and the reticle cap. This will keep tension on the knob and prevent it from turning due to vibration.
I made my spring from a peice of spiral notebook wire.
-tom
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Mount Tip
9/13/2002 12:12:37 PM
Submitted By: warpcorp@swbell.net
Tip: Cradle Mount Fix
Remove the center adjustment screws from the cradle / ring assembly. Drill out the two holes to fit a new 7mm x 30mm allen head cap screw. Slit the felt on the opposite side of the mount in an "x" pattern and fold back and tape with masking tape. Thread the new bolts with larger washers through the holes, the spacer washers and into the mount. Place a lock washer and nut over the bolt and tighten. You will be able to get a much tighter fit with these bolts.
Mix up a small batch of good 2-part epoxy and using a toothpick apply a generous amount around the base of the nut and lockwasher. Do NOT get any on the threads. Let harden for 1 hour.
Now kneed a small 1" ball of epoxy potty until evenly mixed, soft and pliable. Roll up little balls of the putty and drop them in around the nut. I used a small allen wrench to pack them down around the nut until the cavity was filled up even with the top of the nut. In about 2 hours this will be hard enough to hold the nut in place. I would wait 24 hours before actually trying to tighten and loosen the mount. When set up, the putty will be like a rock casing around the nut.
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Mount Tip
9/12/2002 9:51:09 PM
Submitted By: sog@bigpond.com
Tip: Greetz from Oz (Australia)!
When assembling the mount, I would recomend setting your local latitude *before* attaching the weights (esp. on the 10"!). Once attached the weights are *bloody* heavy and make for a difficult ajustment/alignment time.
I read somewhere else on the site about leaving the scope on an uneven surface *without* the OTA attached. Take Note!!! This has happened more than once to me, even after adjusting the mount so it wouldn't fall (soft ground).
Buying 8xD sized batteries is an exercise in Third World invesment spending. Avoid unnessesary investment increases by moving the 'scope *manually*. Not only will you learn (quickly) which is the Alt and which is the Dec knobs, you'll save batteries (and money), you'll wear and tear on the motors, and you'll get more 'hugs' from your 'scope this way. :)
I've only had my 'scope now for 2 weeks and only actually looked at a darkened sky once (freakin evening clouds). I purchased the 'scope for the sole purpose of astrophotography, and I hope to be posting some Southern images over the next few weeks.
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Mount Tip
9/11/2002 5:48:49 PM
Submitted By: rharris@elvis.com
Tip: Just to alert all who own a 10" Scope -
The mount uses 3 -10 lb. counter weights.
This makes is VERY unsteady when there is no Scope ontop, so be careful when you are setting up -especially if you are on un-level groud!
Your scope could CRASH to the ground due to it's unbalanced state!
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